" Flintlock Fixin’ "

Last year, after years of lusting in my heart and finally holding Peter (and
Paul) at gunpoint, I was able to buy the latest high-tech individual combat
weapon system in the arsenal of the United States Army. Relatively
speaking, of course.    

This “high-tech” weapon is a Pedersoli replica of the M1816 Harpers Ferry .
69-caliber flintlock musket. And no, it’s not currently in action in Iraq, but in
its day it was the latest thing and as far as I know was only the second
military smoothbore to be made by a U.S. national armory (The M1795
Springfield was the first; I don‘t count the M1803 Harpers Ferry rifle
because it was a rifle).

The M1816 was made between 1816 and 1844 by the Harpers Ferry and
Springfield arsenals, plus several contractors. All told, I think approximately
800,000 of these “Sweet Sixteens” were made, and according to the Dixie
Gun Works catalog it enjoyed the “highest production of any U.S. flintlock
musket.”  

The 1816 was a workhorse. It saw action primarily in the Second Seminole
War, the Texas Revolution (and was the official arm of the Texas Republic
following that war), the War with Mexico , and even up to the early days of
the War Between the States -- when about 700,000 were converted to
percussion. Original 1816s that weren’t so converted are prized by
collectors today. Some are on display at the U.S. Army Infantry Museum in
Fort Benning .

Originally, the musket came in three variations. The one offered today by
Pedersoli has a feature common to the first (an 1816 date stamping) and
the third -- an armory bright finish and a removable brass flash pan (which it
inherited from one of the French Charleville muskets).

It’s that curious brass flash pan that proved to be somewhat troublesome to
me, a first-time flintlock owner and shooter, and that’s the topic of
discussion.

I bought this musket ever-so-slightly used from my commanding officer in
the Leon Rifles here in Tallahassee . He used the musket in several Dade’s
Battle events and took very good care of the piece. So when I bought it
from him it was in like-new condition.

The problem with buying a new gun is you have to buy all the fun little
accessories that go along with it (yeah, I know what you’re thinking, oh
darn, another excuse to buy more gun stuff!). So in no time flat I had
ordered a brass flash guard and a whisk pick combo (from Jonathan
Townsend), a M1808 cartridge box (from Dixie), a white buff cartridge box
sling (from C&D Jarnagin) and a M1828 bayonet scabbard with white buff
baldric (also from Jarnagin). The last major purchase was a M1833 “hog
killer” forage cap from Dirty Billy, purchased while at Olustee this past
February (if this sounds like a recipe for a U.S. solider or militaman of the
1830s, you would be correct--I‘m diversifying my reenactment holdings).

Of all these purty new things, the flash guard was most essential. It fastens
around the flash pan using the frizzen screw, and it’s a required safety
device at many state park events (you don’t want to “flash” the guy standing
next to you, although it doesn’t really work all that well). I installed the
simple brass cup with a pair of taped vise grips (to clamp the frizzen spring
in place) and a screwdriver, and set about testing the musket with blank
black powder rounds.

But back home at the Dehart Proving Grounds in Oxford it didn’t take long
for me to notice a slight problem with the flash pan/flash guard
arrangement.

I noticed the “problem” when I first went to load the sucker. Here’s the
process, in terms you can understand: 1) With the musket at hip level and
the hammer at half-cock, open the pan. 2) Handle the blank cartridge. 3)
Open cartridge with teeth. 4) Tap a few grains of powder into the priming
pan (not too much!) 5) Close the pan. 6) Pour the rest of the powder down
the barrel. 7) Tap the butt of the gun on the ground to compact the main
charge. 8) Shoulder arms. 9) Bring the piece to full-cock, aim and press the
trigger. Followed by 10) big badaboom and lots of smoke.

My first firing attempt, though, ended in dry sparks and no big badaboom.
Slightly curious, I checked the pan. No powder. It had fallen out during Step
7. An investigation revealed that the priming powder was falling out of a gap
between the top of the pan and the frizzen/pan cover. Not good -- it didn’t
stop the piece from functioning, since I could always re-prime from another
cartridge, but that’s not very efficient or safe because you end up with an
open cartridge in your box. So I had to figure out what was going on and fix
it.

At first, the flash guard seemed to be the culprit. I discovered that the
removable flash pan was tilting out of battery when the frizzen screw
holding the flash guard in place was tightened down (backing off the
pressure only allowed the guard to fall out of battery). The annoying
problem corrected itself when the guard was removed. But that wasn’t an
option.

I shot out e-mails to various folks but nobody seemed to have an answer
until I contacted a couple nice folks in the Florida Frontier Guard, a Tampa-
area unit that does First, Second and Third Seminole War reenacting. They
told me that the problem was a missing pan screw, located inside the lock.
The pan screw holds the flash pan in place. If it’s loose or missing, it
causes the pan to tilt.

After removing the twin lock screws on the left side and lifting the lock out
of the stock I was relieved to find the pan screw still in place, just loose. A
quick twist with a small screwdriver locked it down. I then carefully re-
installed the lock, and then the flash guard. With a few minor adjustments,
the pan and pan cover/frizzen mated together perfectly, and the guard
stayed in place.

And so it came to pass that shortly after this I learned of an upcoming
Second Seminole War skirmish at DeLeon Springs State Park . Eager to
test out my flintlock, I fell in with Major Keith Kohl and a handful of other re-
enactors, including Calen Smith - who had the only other 1816 on our side
that day (It was great to compare notes with another 1816 aficionado).

During the ensuing battle the 1816 functioned very well, and despite all of
the constant running and maneuvering there was no loss of priming powder.
The gun flashed and roared with great authority (much big badaboom!), and
that brought a very satisfied grin to my face.



That is, until the flint stopped sparking … but that’s another story. I’ll just
say that next time, I’ll carry a knapping tool with me into combat.



Until next time, keep your powder dry, your flints knapped, and your steel
clean!

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( C ) 2006
By Jason Z. Dehart
Jason